Small town New Mexico. Well, that is what the majority of New Mexico is. In a state with 121,355 sq miles of space, and less that 2 million people to populate it, (over half of them living in greater Albuquerque), you can well imagine that most of NM is very rural.
ould like to take a fun day trip to experience small town New Mexico, you have many, many places to chose from, in any direction you chose, but I want to tell you about a particular town in NM that I feel holds the essence of the culture and heritage of the state. This town is Villanueva.Villanueva is a Spanish Colonial village east of Albuquerque and south of Las Vegas, (NM), in San Miguel County. It has the distinction of also being home to a beautiful yet little know New Mexico State Park set along the famous Pecos River. It is an unassuming, yet excellent example of small town New Mexico, with no semblance of tourism anywhere. When approaching this village from I-40 to the south, it is difficult to visualize a town out here on the plains. But just as you become reasonably sure you are headed to nowhere, the landscape instantly transforms from grassland to rocks and hills, and before you know it you are cutting through the rock hill and bursting into a pictu
resque hidden valley surrounded by yellow and red rock bluffs with a river running through it. You never saw it coming. I love it when that happens!
Villanueva residents number right around 2,250, or so. The per capita income is about $16,700, which may seem low, but is very typical in rural New Mexico. It’s not like they are all living at the poverty level, but rather that people in these small towns have different priorities and simpler needs than those of us living the rat race in metropolis. Additionally, not all income is reported in these small villages, and the art of barter is alive and well.
There are only 3.5 persons per sq. mile in Villanueva. It makes for very rural living. The village is 85% Hispanic, not surprising for a 
Spanish Colonial village. Although Villanueva means “new town” this new name came about in 1890, when it was named after the Villanueva family, (just as many NM towns and villages are named for the family that first settled or were most prominent). The former name for this village was La Cuesta, meaning slope or hill, in Spanish. There is no industry, so to speak, but there are many ranches in this area and the fertile valley floor along the river is farmed, as it has been for hundreds of years. The sandstone rock in the hills surrounding Villanueva is collected and sold for landscaping use in Santa Fe and Albuquerque. And there IS that great New Mexico State Park, and the river and ruins to explore within it’s seclusion.
The elevation is just a bit higher than Albuquerque and lower than Santa Fe, at 5,867′. Whether you travel up from I-40 , or down from I-25, take your time because the drive is picturesque and the road is a sometimes curvy 2 lane blacktop. I have prepared a Google Map for a day trip from Albuquerque to Villanueva from our b&b. You can come into Villanueva from I-25 between Santa Fe and Las Vegas, but I think coming into the village from the south is more dramatic, (and shorter), so that is how I have prepared the route. Caution to you – the Google Map directions are very wrong as of this date, and will get you in trouble, so use the directions on my map. There is no formal lodging in the town, but there is camping along the river in Villanueva State Park. Get directions from a local or the folks at the general store to climb, (or drive), up the hill to the grotto. It is worth the trip to see the grotto itself, (pictured,) and take in the view of the village.Also pictured is the Co-op well, two views from the grotto on the hill above the village, Our Lady of Guadalupe Catholic Church and one of the many hand sewn panels from a mural in the church, this one representing the Leyba familia from the nearby village of – yes – Leyba. Muy bueno!
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Tags: camping, NM, NM State Parks, Villanueva NM
I found this little town and park a while back when I was on my way to visit a friend in Nevada. I was pretty surprised to see it. I told my dad about it and he didn’t believe me so I took a picture of the road sign. The only time I ever actually drove to the town, it looked very unkept with abandoned buildings everywhere. Maybe I should have driven in a bit further to see it all correctly.
Thanks for posting here. Perhaps you can show this blog post about Villanueva. I don’t know how long ago it was for your visit, but it was looking better and better every time I visited it a few years back. I plan on another visit soon. Are you from NM?
Since Vilanueva is a small community, maybe you could help me.
I am looking for an old friend who settled in Villanueva. His name is (Christopher) “Kit” Colvig. (He is known in Jalisco as “Cristobal”). He does some farming.
I googled his name and found a newspaper article from 2007 about him in Villanueva, but have no way to find him. Maybe you could help spread the word.
He would be in his mid 60′s now. He is Caucasian, but spent much time in Mexico and converses well in spanish.
Thank you for your courtesy,
Bill Heinemann AKA “Guillermo”